Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley

Hol Chan Marine Reserve is the most visited dive and snorkel site in Belize, and for good reason. A short boat ride from San Pedro on Ambergris Caye, it packs coral, seagrass, a natural channel through the reef and a crowd of fish into one small protected area. Next door, Shark Ray Alley lets you float above nurse sharks and southern stingrays in water barely deeper than you are tall. Here is what to expect and how to make the most of it.

About Hol Chan Marine Reserve

Hol Chan, a Maya name usually translated as "little channel," was established in 1987 as Belize's first marine reserve. It sits at the southern end of Ambergris Caye, where a natural cut runs through the barrier reef. Fishing is banned in its core areas, which is why the fish are so large and so relaxed around people. The reserve is part of the Belize Barrier Reef Reserve System World Heritage Site.

The reserve is divided into zones that protect different habitats:

• The reef and the channel, where most dives and snorkel stops happen. The channel walls are covered in coral, and schools of snapper and grunts hang in the current.
• Seagrass beds, nursery grounds for young fish, conch and turtles.
• Mangroves along the island, which shelter juvenile fish and protect the shore.
• Shark Ray Alley, a sandy shallow area added to the reserve, famous for nurse sharks and stingrays.

Diving Hol Chan

Hol Chan is a shallow dive, mostly between about 6 and 10 metres (20 to 30 feet), which makes it ideal for new divers and long, relaxed bottom times. Expect green moray eels in the crevices, large groupers, schools of grunts and snapper, spotted eagle rays passing through the channel, and often a turtle or two. Water moves through the cut with the tide, so dives are often timed for calmer water and guides keep groups close. Our guide to Belize dive shops lists what to ask an operator before you go.

Snorkelling Shark Ray Alley

Shark Ray Alley is usually a snorkel stop rather than a dive. Nurse sharks and southern stingrays gather in the shallow water, and they come right up to the boats. Nurse sharks are bottom-dwellers and generally calm, but they are still wild animals with strong jaws. Keep your hands to yourself, don't chase or grab them, and follow your guide's instructions.

Snorkel or Dive?

Both are rewarding. Snorkellers see most of the reef because it is so shallow, and many trips combine a Hol Chan snorkel with Shark Ray Alley in a half-day outing. Divers get closer to the channel walls and spend longer with the bigger fish. If your group is mixed, look for a boat that takes both snorkellers and divers to the same sites.

Rules and Fees

• Visitors must go with a licensed tour guide or dive operator.
• There is a reserve entry fee, usually collected by your operator; ask whether it is included in the trip price.
• No touching, standing on or collecting coral, shells or animals.
• No feeding the fish. Feeding changes their behaviour and harms the reef.
• Wear reef-safe sunscreen or, better, a rash guard. See our scuba diving gear guide for Belize.

Getting There

Hol Chan is about a 15 to 20 minute boat ride south of San Pedro, so it is easiest from Ambergris Caye. Many operators on Caye Caulker also run combined trips that stop at Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley. If you're choosing between the two islands, read our comparison of Ambergris Caye vs Caye Caulker for divers and our Belize dive accommodations guide.

Marine Life to Look For

Hol Chan's protection shows in its fish. Look for these on a typical visit:

• Green moray eels poking out of holes in the channel walls.
• Nassau and black groupers, which can be surprisingly large and curious.
• Schools of snapper, grunts and jacks hanging in the current.
• Spotted eagle rays gliding through the channel.
• Green and hawksbill turtles grazing in the seagrass.
• Southern stingrays and nurse sharks at Shark Ray Alley.

Watch the seagrass beds too. They look empty at first, but juvenile fish, conch and the occasional seahorse hide there. A slow, close look rewards patient snorkellers.

Tips for a Great Trip

Bring a rash guard for sun protection, drink plenty of water on the boat, and use a mask strap cover if you have long hair. If you get cold easily, a thin wetsuit or shorty makes a long snorkel more comfortable even in warm water. Underwater cameras work well here because the water is shallow and bright.

Best Time to Visit

Hol Chan can be visited all year. The dry season, from about November to May, usually brings the calmest water and best visibility. Morning trips tend to be quieter, before the larger tour groups arrive, and calmer weather makes the channel easier for new divers and snorkellers alike.